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Independent service company · est. St. Augustine

Old City Cold Storage Co.

Sub-Zero refrigeration, wine storage and ice machines — St. Augustine and St. Johns County

+1 (904) 604-7755 Book online Monday – Friday, 8:00 am – 6:00 pm

undercounter refrigeration

Undercounter units that cool in winter and fail in August

Small cabinets in hot locations — under an island, in a butler's pantry, or out on a lanai where the summer air is working against them.

The ice maker module held at an angle in the freezer opening, showing the mould, the ejector arm and the cubes underneath
The same mechanism, in a smaller cabinet

What owners describe

  • The unit cools well in winter and poorly in August
  • A drawer no longer glides or will not close square
  • Condensation stands on the inside of the glass door
  • The cabinet is cold at the back and warm at the front
  • The unit trips the circuit it shares with something else

Undercounter refrigeration lives a harder life than anything else in the kitchen. The cabinets are small, which means the sealed system has little thermal mass to work with; they are installed in the middle of the joinery, where heat has nowhere convenient to go; and in a great many houses here they are asked to do that in an outdoor kitchen, on a lanai, in a St. Johns County August.

The seasonal complaint

The single most common call on this family of appliances arrives between June and September and sounds like this: it was fine all winter and now it will not hold. That is not a coincidence and it is very often not a failing compressor.

A refrigeration system rejects heat to the air around it. When that air is seventy degrees, a slightly restricted condenser is invisible. When the air beside the unit is ninety-five, the same restriction is the difference between holding thirty-eight degrees and holding fifty. Owners describe an appliance that “broke in the summer”; what usually happened is that the summer finally exposed a condition that had been building for two or three years.

The correction is frequently airflow rather than parts: clear the fins, restore the intake and discharge clearance, confirm the fan is turning at speed, and measure the cabinet again on the hottest hour of the day rather than on the cool of the morning.

Drawers are mechanical as well as thermal

Refrigerator drawers add a set of failure modes that a door does not have. The drawer carries its own gasket around a moving front, it rides on runners that take the weight of whatever the household loads into it, and it must close square to seal at all. A runner that has picked up grit, a drawer loaded past what anyone intended, or a front that has drifted out of parallel with the cabinet all end in the same place: a seal that touches on three sides.

The tell is frost at one corner of the drawer and nowhere else. That is a mechanical fault with a thermal symptom, and it is worth diagnosing as such before anyone discusses the sealed system.

Outdoor and lanai installations

Any unit installed outdoors is a special case, and on Anastasia Island and in the 32084 ZIP it is a special case with salt in it. Salt-laden air films the condenser fins, works into the door hinge and the latch, and marks stainless with the brown speckling owners often mistake for rust in the steel itself. It is usually surface contamination that has been left to sit, and it is far easier to prevent than to reverse.

An outdoor cabinet also has to be the right kind of cabinet. An indoor undercounter unit fitted into an outdoor island will run, for a while, and then it will not. That is one of the few situations where the honest answer at the end of a diagnostic is that the appliance is in the wrong place, and we would rather say so than sell a repair that fails again next summer.

Electrical supply

Older houses in the Old City frequently have no dedicated circuit for a modern undercounter unit, because the kitchen was wired long before anybody imagined one. A compressor sharing a circuit with a disposal or a microwave will start against a sagging voltage, and repeated hard starts shorten its life measurably. Where we find that condition, we will say so in the written estimate; correcting it is an electrician’s job, not ours, but the appliance will not stay repaired without it.

Booking

Flat $80 diagnostic, credited toward the repair on approval, with a written estimate before any part is ordered. Genuine OEM parts. 90 days on labour, 365 days on parts. Weekdays 8:00 am to 6:00 pm and Saturday 9:00 am to 4:00 pm.

We are an independent shop and we work on Sub-Zero refrigeration only.

What does this work usually cost?

Once the fault has been found, this is what the work on this family of appliance usually runs to. Where a repair will fall outside these spans, you are told before any part is ordered.

$80 Flat $80 diagnostic covering the visit and the full diagnostic sequence, credited toward the repair once you approve the work.

Typical completed repairs on this work — ranges, not quotes
The work Usual completed repair
Evaporator or condenser fan motor $260–$570
Electronic control board $440–$850
Door gasket or seal replacement $240–$640
Defrost heater, thermostat or sensor $250–$600
Diagnostic visit $80, credited to the repair

A span is what an honest shop can publish before it has seen the cabinet. Parts and labour are itemised on a written estimate, the estimate is presented before anything is ordered, and the $80 figure comes off the invoice once you approve the work. Where the fault turns out to sit outside these bands, you are told before, not after.

What do owners ask about undercounter refrigeration?

Why did the unit only fail in August?

Because a slightly restricted condenser is invisible when the air beside it is seventy degrees and decisive when it is ninety-five. The summer did not break the appliance; it exposed a condition that had been building for two or three years. The correction is often airflow rather than parts.

Frost forms at one corner of the drawer and nowhere else. Why?

Because the drawer is not closing square, so its gasket seals on three sides. Grit in a runner, a drawer loaded past what anyone intended, or a front that has drifted out of parallel all end in the same place. It is a mechanical fault with a thermal symptom.

What do drawer and fan repairs usually cost?

An evaporator or condenser fan motor usually lands in the $260–$570 band and a drawer gasket in the $240–$640 band, parts and labour together. The $80 diagnostic is credited against whichever of them you approve, and the estimate is written before anything is ordered.

After a undercounter refrigeration visit

4.8 out of 5, across 60 customer reviews. Each entry below is one visit, described by the person whose kitchen it was.

  • The wet bar unit on the ocean side of the house had stopped cooling. He showed me the state of the fins, combed them back, and replaced a fan the salt had eaten. Cold ever since.

    Esme R.2025-09-02

  • The drawer unit had begun running loudly enough to hear over the television. A condenser fan bearing had gone dry. He replaced the motor and cleaned the coil while the panel was off.

    Alba J.2025-10-28

  • The second drawer would not seal and kept frosting. Put right on the return visit, after the first gasket turned up damaged, which nobody could help, but it did stretch the job out.

    Dermot L.2025-09-16

All 60 of them, in full

Nearby work

Booking this work

$80 flat diagnostic, credited against the repair. A written estimate is presented before any part is ordered or any repair begins. 90 days on labour, 365 days on parts, on every completed repair.

Call +1 (904) 604-7755 Book a visit

Sub-Zero refrigeration only. We do not accept work on other makes.

The charges · Repair or replace · The guarantee · Questions